Surfing

Explains the concept of extreme as it relates to surfing, reviews the history of big-wave riding in ancient Hawaii, the north shore of Oahu in the 1950s and 1960s, and the period since the early 1990s, examines the science of surfing, and discusses the oceanography and geography of selected surfing sites, the feats of legendary extreme surfers, technical aspects of the sport, and its future.